The Most-Read American Food Stories of 2023
Noma's impending closure, home cooking, "best of" lists, and inflation coverage figured prominently on most-read lists from the NYT, Eater, The Los Angeles Times, and elsewhere
This is the final 2023 edition of Free Food, a column that tracks some of the biggest stories in food and restaurants. Consider subscribing to unlock full access to The LO Times, including reviews and cheat sheets like The Splurge List and The Steak List.
One of the coolest parts of teaching food writing at CUNY is when I let my students debate the Pete Wells review of Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar.
The critic issued a rare “poor” rating on the Times Square establishment.
I know you’ve all read it. It’s a biting column, penned entirely in the interrogative mood — a string of caustic questions written as if it were being read out loud by “Seth & Amy.” Really!
Some of my students think it’s a brilliant piece of writing; others don’t. But agree or disagree, I always try to hammer home one particular statistic. The Guy Fieri column was the fourth most read story on the Times website in 2012. Indeed, its popularity was testament to the force of good food writing — even during a year when Obama was elected to a second term, and when Superstorm Sandy ravaged the Northeast.
We all knew the Fieri review was a big deal, but the paper’s eye-popping datapoint puts it in striking context.
I love “most-read” lists. I like how they tell us what other folks love (or hate) to click on. They’re not a perfect window into the minds of readers, especially in a world of stifling algorithms (that will favor one tweet over another) and changing editorial priorities (not all columns get a spot on the homepage, or a push-alert to millions). But still. A writer who ignores these lists does so at their peril, not unlike a politician who summarily dismisses an unfavorable poll.
So this is our first annual compilation of the most-read food journalism, from major publications around the country. I’ve spent the past week or so combing through these lists, so first, let me outline a few quick things that stood out:
Home cooking stories made up over half of the NYT Food Section’s most-read list. But even still, a column about the closure of a very expensive fine dining spot — Noma — took the top spot for that publication.
Speaking of fine dining, the most read story on Eater’s main site was a column explaining the ending of “The Menu,” a horror-satire that skewers the elite culture of posh destination restaurants.
Lists, lists, lists: The most read “review” from NYT Food was the Pete Wells 100 Best Restaurants list. And over on the West Coast, Bill Addison’s 101 Best Restaurants was the eighth most read story on the entire Los Angeles Times! Yes, you will see more lists from me next year.
Inflation Nation: The popularity of pieces like Saveur’s “The New Frugal” and the NYT’s “Foods You Should Buy When They’re on Sale” speak to a populace looking to save as they get hammered by high prices. My own LO Times piece on restaurant prices was my second-most read story of the year.
One last thing: Two of my longest, riskiest columns (Tatiana, Le Relais) did the best numbers of any reviews I ran. I don’t want to overthink that datapoint, but I reckon it suggests that readers still get excited about deep critical dives with strong, challenging points of view. These missives will never be my bread and butter; I’d burn out fast if they were. But I’d love to see more room for this type of coverage throughout food media, even in our era of listicles (which I love) and shorter, more service-y writeups (which I’ll do more of next year).
Alright! Let’s get to the lists!
The 11 Most-Read Stories From The LO Times
Presented in thrilling descending order!
On Tatiana, and How Party Restaurants Are Reshaping Fine Dining
In my final year at Eater, I noticed that a party-like ethos was creeping into hip restaurants. In my first year at The LO Times, I wrote nearly 3,000 words about how a Tao-like energy is making fine dining more accessible to more people.
The Best Steaks and Chops in New York
I’m already plotting the next edition of this list, with both expensive (and affordable) entrants!
New York’s 21 Best Restaurants for a Splurge
Yes, this means I’ll have more fine-dining reviews in the new year!
Is 2nd Ave Deli's Pastrami Sandwich Still Worth It at $30?
It’s still pretty damn good!
These Are the Best Restaurants of 2023
The first edition of what will be an annual tradition!
Is Le Relais de Venise L'Entrecote NYC's Worst Place for Steak Frites?
My most read restaurant review…a minute-by-minute account of what it was like to wait in line for over two hours to get a seriously lousy steak.
You Can Skip David Portnoy's $200 Pizza Party
I hope I don’t have to write about this guy again in 2024.
Our Critical Michelin Guide New York Coverage
Agree or disagree, people love takes on the Michelin Man. This one counts for both Michelin columns, each of which had enough views to make the list individually.
We're Getting Priced Out of the Restaurants We Love
A big part of the Vibecession is understanding that even as inflation moderates and as wages go up (yay!), prices remain super high (boo!). This essay required a lot of work…I started drafting it nearly a year ago!
Is This the End of David Chang's Momofuku Empire as We Know It?
My most read story of 2023...by far. As restaurants around the city become more creative again, David Chang hit the pause button on his culinary empire as Momofuku pivoted, at least temporarily, to selling packaged noodles at Whole Foods and elsewhere.
The Most Read Food Stories From Around the Web
Maybe, one day in the future, all most-read lists will devolve into the same, click bait-y, where-did Timothée-Chalamet-go-for-brunch nonsense — the journalistic equivalent of “Now all restaurants Are Taco Bell.” But generally speaking, these lists suggest that people want informative, delightful, distinctive journalism, with different publications doing their own cool things.
New York Times Food: Home Cooking and Noma’s Closure
Home cooking stories made up a really big slice of the Times most-read list, more so than any of its’ peers (it’s quite possible Bon Appétit would be up there as well if that publication released a comparable column). Seven or eight of the Times top 12 list dealt with non-restaurant cooking in a major way. Here are some of them:
The Times national restaurant list came in at No. 3, while the herculean Pete Wells effort, the debut “100 Best Restaurants in New York City,” ranked No. 2. It’s a reality that suggests readers are hungry for the sort of lists that Eater and The Infatuation have long been famous for. As for the most read story? “Noma, Rated the World’s Best Restaurant, Is Closing Its Doors”
SF Chronicle: Silicon Valley Bank, Anchoring Brewing, and Ice Cubes
I did some of my best eating this year in San Francisco and Oakland, at venues like Copra, El Paisa, and Shawarmaji. And it was fun to start reading SF Chronicle associate Critic Cesar Hernandez, whose writing steered me toward a very good Colombian meal at Parche. Order the lechona! But I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that it was a tough year for the Bay Area hospitality industry, with widespread tech layoffs — and possibly a “negative national narrative” about SF — making life tough and sometimes “terrifying” for local restaurants, the Chronicle reports.
Here are a few selections from the Chronicle Food Section’s most-read list:
“Silicon Valley Bank collapse is causing a financial crisis for California’s wine industry”
Underage folks are trying to get into bars by flashing photos of their IDs on mobile devices — something I’ve done myself, successfully, as a non-underage person.
And the most read? “Clear ice cubes make cocktails taste better. Really.” Shout out to Caleb Pershan for that missive!
Eater: Let’s Talk About the WTF Ending of the Menu
I’m always telling my CUNY students about the brilliant culture reporting and criticism of Eater Dot Com, and while the very best works can be found on the bios of folks like Bettina Makalintal, Amy McCarthy, and Jaya Saxena, I’m stoked about this most-read list. A few selections:
“The Multilevel Truth About Behind Small Town America’s Latest Tea Obsession”
Eater’s New Restaurants (always fine work here, led by Hillary Dixler Canavan)
The No. 1 Eater National story? “Let’s Talk About the WTF Ending of ‘The Menu.’” I actually didn’t finish watching that flick (too violent!), but I’m a big fan of the tortilla scene.
Food & Wine: Food Recalls, TikTok, and….Rebel Wilson?
Food & Wine’s “most read” list — which is confined to news — is not like the others. I don’t mean that critically. It is simply different. Among the entrants to the Top 10:
A story about a Jordan Howlett Instagram reel that explains the colorful tags on your bread bag.
“There's a New Proposed Airplane Seat Design That's Way Worse Than the Middle Seat”
A story about a Jordan Howlett TikTok reel that teaches “the entire internet the easiest way to open a soda can, saving fingernails all over the world.”
“FYI, those mini bottles of Fireball sold at gas stations aren't actually whiskey”
The most read story had this title:“Rebel Wilson banned from Disneyland for allegedly snapping a photo in the park's most exclusive dining venue.”
Update: A representative for Food & Wine emailed to state that the publication’s most-read list is confined to food news stories, adding that it’s not the same as overall most-read, which would include “recipes and features as well.” We’ve updated the writeup to note the news-focus.
Grub Street: The New Rules of Tipping
Holy sh!t New York Mag’s Grub Street included 20 stories in its most-read list. I support that decision. I’ve long argued that the worst thing about a “best of” list is that there are only 10 spots. Why not show off more great stuff? Indeed, that’s what Grub did! Here’s some of what made the list:
“Delia Cai Makes the Most of a Breakup Brunch”: One of the two Grub Diets on the top 20! By the always amazing Emma Alpern.
“A Big Fat Blob of Boring”: Tammie Teclemariam with a correct take on burrata, a column that I did not expect to ruffle the feathers that it did!
“The Kids Menu of the Ruling Class:” E. Alex Jung on Polo Bar
The most read? “The New Rules of Tipping,” a column offering advice on gratuity norms at restaurants and cafes, and for delivery workers.
Punch: The Most Underrated Classics
The Punch People didn’t provide an ordered list of their most read stories, so I’m just going to have to tease out some highlights! Among the most popular stories from the Vox Media-run beverage site:
“In the Dominican Republic, Mamajuana Is a Drink, a Medicine and a Rite of Passage”: An absolute must-read from Mike Diago.
“The Most Underrated Classics?”: A fine piece dedicated to overlooked drinks, including my absolutely beloved Tom Collins.
“A Vodka-Soda That’s Anything But Basic”: A look at Superbueno’s highball of vodka, guava, water, pasilla. and soda. I want to try it!
Saveur: The New Frugal, National Dishes
Saveur, like Punch, doesn’t rank its stories, but you can click through for the 10 best, some of which I’m listing right here;
“The Untapped Potential of America’s Largest Edible Native Fruit”: A serious shout out to the delicious and overlooked pawpaw!
“The New Frugal,” which you should read. A key line: “Coupons remind us that food prices are not only fluid—they’re sometimes made-up.”
“The Problem with National Dishes.” Anya von Bremzen published a book this year about the complex history of dishes like pizza, ramen, borscht, and mole. I can’t wait to read it. But first, I’m excited by Benjamin Kemper’s excellent interview with the author.
Dallas Morning News: BBQ Feuds! The Texas Rangers!
If you know me you know that I love Texas, and I’m almost as excited about Dak and the Cowboys advancing through the playoffs as I am about the Rangers having finally won a World Series. And while it’s been a while since my last visit to the Lone Star State, here are a few headlines from the Dallas Morning News most-read list.
And the most read story from the Dallas Morning News is: “Hutchins Barbeque owner sues dad and brother.” As reporter Sarah Blaskovich writes: “Let me say, y’all love a food feud.”
Eater NY: The ‘Worst Restaurant in New York City’ Has Closed
Okay, let’s finish up with my good friends and colleagues at Eater NY, whom I miss dearly. Here are a few of the stories that readers clicked on the most:
A report on Michael Imperioli’s new bar, which is sadly not called Spider Venom
Robert Sietsema’s first-day take on Superiority Burger
“Welcome to the Year’s Most Unhinged Italian Restaurant So Far”: Luke Fortney’s tongue-in-cheek report on the opening of Bad Roman, a venue that took up an…unusual amount of oxygen in 2023.
But the No. 1 slot went to…..[drumroll]: “The ‘Worst Restaurant in New York City’ Has Closed.” Fortney clearly relishes typing up this obit of Salt Bae Burger. Here’s my favorite part:
“The Turkish butcher, known online as Salt Bae, became an internet sensation in 2017 for sprinkling salt over steaks in aviator sunglasses and form-fitting white shirts. It netted him 52 million followers on Instagram, but in one of the world’s most competitive restaurant markets, it couldn’t keep his burger chain open.”
That column brings back memories! Sietsema and I reviewed Salt Bae in February of 2020 — with photographer Gary He in tow — just a month before the COVID shutdown. It would be the last indoor meal together for the three of us in quite some time.
May we all dine out together more often in 2024, and read lots of food media from around the country, and around world! And please remember to chomp responsibly tonight!
Happy New Year!!!
Ryan!!!
p.s. Please take a look at some of the excellent year-end columns from my good colleagues on Substack, including over at Vittles and at Marian Bull’s Mess Hall.
Great read!