It’s Monday, 28 September 2026, and New York is recovering from a Nor’easter that drenched the five boroughs and brought coastal flooding to Freeport, Oceanside, Island Park, and Long Beach. Anyone with memories of Superstorm Sandy or Hurricane Irene knows the South Shore of Long Island always gets hits hard during times like these.
Restaurants, of course, can suffer even amid a steady drizzle — no one wants to get soggy as the weather cools — so if you have the will or the means, this might be a good week to spend a few bucks on skewers, tacos, rotisserie chickens, or whatever you fancy.
My original hope was to publish a long personal essay I’ve been chipping away at — with some fun review elements about Central Asian fare — but it still needs more time. I’ll get there.
Fortunately, I had a plan b in the wings: A few thoughts on Unglo, a beef-forward Upper West Side Thai spot. I ate there just the other week and they’re doing some cool red meat stuff you’re not really seeing elsewhere. I’m stoked! This is a very solid option for some pre-theater dining in the Lincoln Center area.
But first…
Red Meat Meals that made me happy this month!
When it comes to old school steakhouses, my two staples are Gallagher’s and Keens. It’s been a while since my last trip to the former, but I swung by the latter not too long ago and let me say this: the bar room remains electric. The after-work crowds are almost as dense as one might remember from McFadden’s (ugh). But in a more polite way. A bunch of us shared the mutton chop, which had been on my mind since I reviewed the Barnsley saddle cut at Dean’s. No surprise here: The ovine meat is as wonderful as ever, with tender fats, grassy aromas, and rich jus. It’s still my favorite offering at Keens, and maybe I’ll sample the scotch program next time.
Part of reviewing restaurants for the NYT — or my own newsletter — involves scouting similar spots and doing a research meal or two. The hard life! For my Cheburechnaya review, I made sure to re-visit a fellow Kosher Central Asian spot: Taam Tov in the Diamond District. It remains quite good! I ordered the lulya shashlik, a ground beef kebab that was no less bouncy or juicy than the one I wrote about in Rego Park. But with Manhattan digs come Manhattan prices. Cheburechnaya charges $5.49 for a single lulya skewer. Taam Tov asks $29 for two takeout skewers with a side. Verdict: Both are very much a BUY.
How about a new Mexican steakhouse near Rock Center?
Plus: Some great steak dishes at Unglo, my favorite fried rice at the moment, and a few restaurant reviews from around food media!