The Next Great Prime Rib. And Pie
Reviewing Daniel Boulud's fancy steakhouse, La Tete D'Or. Plus: notes on the prime rib at Smith & Wollensky and Gallaghers. Bonus: The top pies at Kellogg's Diner
One of New York’s Best Prime Ribs
Curious about the opening week vibes at La Tete D’Or by Daniel Boulud? Let me paint a picture for you:
The sprawling One Madison space glows in hues of bronze. Wood-trimmed banquettes look pilfered from the Orient Express. A guy with a combover talks about his interpretation of the Trump Dance. Another guy strolls in with a bold red tie. A woman introduces herself to a sommelier — mere seconds before becoming invisible while her date orders a bottle. A timeless dance.
A guy in a scarf ditches his date mid-course to tour a private room. As one does. And a well-groomed Cavalier King Charles Spaniel rests on the floor, watching me eat. I’m eating wagyu prime rib. And it is good.
La Tete D’Or is not a hip downtown spot like Bridges or Eel Bar.
This is a starchy slice of Flatiron, where you’ll find one of the largest per capita concentrations of dry-cleaned collars outside of Georgetown. The 120-seat room sits underneath the offices of Franklin Templeton — an investment firm that has, oh, $1.5 trillion in assets under management. Guess those boys can afford the $24 martinis!
La Tete D’Or is one of New York’s priciest steakhouses.
I’m not in the habit of reviewing a restaurant within days of its opening. Still, I’d be doing you all a disservice by waiting to write about Boulud’s prime rib. It’s that good.
The 10-ounce cut is small by New York standards. But it knows how to take up space. It travels on a giant service trolley and it packs enough heft to cast a shadow on your plate. The flesh comes slathered in sauces forged from veal stock, butter, red wine, and marrow. It all makes for a prime rib that tastes like no other. And it comes with some of the city’s greatest creamed spinach.
That’s some good prime rib right there, to paraphrase an old pal.
It costs $115.
Behind the Paywall: Boulud’s Prime Rib, Explained
Precisely what makes the Tete D’Or wagyu prime rib so special
The technique that sets the creamed spinach apart
Notes on the raw bar and the wedge salad
A few words on the prime ribs at Smith & Wollensky, and Gallaghers
Thanksgiving Bonus: Notes on the pies at Kellogg’s Diner
But first, lets talk about NYC’s great prime ribs
And why a good prime rib is really two steaks in one