New York's Best Caviar, Right Now
Plus: How I ate $100 worth of uni, bluefin, and foie in 10 min at Bangkok Supper. Also: Why Thai Diner's shellfish platter is so great. And the case for Pearl Street caviar
It’s caviar time, people!
I’ve been writing a lot, so to keep my head on straight, I’ve been eating caviar a lot.
As a treat :)
Good sturgeon roe makes me stupendously happy.
I love how caviar takes all the flavors of the sea — briny, metallic, oily, nutty, cucumber-y, seaweed-y — and distills them into tiny edible pearls. Into shiny little beads that pack the force of the world’s oceans.
Our restaurant scene, as luck would have it, is overflowing with roe these days, as posh venues try to woo wealthy diners…and as hungry food critics live beyond their means.
So today, let’s talk about caviar. Let’s take a look at all the fish roe — and a few other luxuries — at a trio of modern Thai spots. I’ll also write about an overlooked Brooklyn purveyor that I love (Pearl Street), and about some clever caviar preparations at SAGA and Cactus Wren. Let’s get to it!
The era of fancy Thai!
One of the more surprising culinary developments of 2025 has been the rise of expensive and modern Thai spots.
Bangkok Supper Club — where the charcoal-grilled cooking is better than ever — debuted a pricey counter tasting this summer. Narkara, a Northern Thai spot in Flatiron, opened last month with luxuries I’ve not yet encountered, including yanang aspic and chilled red curry terrine.
And just this week, Unglo debuted on the Upper West Side. It serves some seriously posh steaks. Actually, let me go even further: Unglo is one of the biggest red meat openings of the fall — not a phrase one hears too often about a new Thai spot.
The owners, who also run Soothr and Chalong, have given us an effort in moo krata; a style of Southeast Asian barbecue that combines the sensibilities of Chinese hot pot with Korean tabletop grilling.
But how much does this all cost…especially in our era of rising steak prices?
Answer: Unglo is expensive.
Yes, there are affordable-ish a la carte offerings here (beef tongue, pork jowl, lamb racks, fish balls), but Unglo also offers tastings at $88 per person. That’s ten bucks more than at Cote. The tasting includes a few small bites, a platter of seasonal vegetables, assorted meats, and a premium selection that might include Miyazaki wagyu and dry-aged steak. Dessert is gelato!
For a party of two, these tastings will come to $227 after tax and tip. Patrons can also share an Unglo “reserve” box with wagyu ribeye and striploin, prime dry-aged strip, and a tin of osetra caviar. Cost: An extra $218 if you’re doing the tasting. I’ll swing by for a meal soon enough! 35 West 64th Street, Upper West Side
Behind the paywall: caviar…and other luxuries
Review: Foie gras, uni, caviar, and bluefin at Bangkok Supper Club
How to book Bangkok’s $150 tasting menu
Review: Pearl Street is your new staple for non-ripoff caviar
My effort in making trout roe tacos!
And…
Review: Thai Diner is your new hub for (creative) caviar and shellfish!!!
